Lindseyw Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 Travelling Abroad With Pets ? http://www.drive-alive.co.uk/pet-travel.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindseyw Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 Want A Rescue Animal ? Try Here: http://www.dogpages.co.uk http://www.sheffieldretiredgreyhounds.co.uk http://www.dogsey.com http://www.westierescuescheme.org.uk/ http://www.thornberry-animal-sanctuary.org/ http://www.rainrescue.co.uk/ http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/search.asp?ContID=1617 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindseyw Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 Toxic Foods / Products DOGS Chocolate (theo bromine) We do get a lot of queries on how much chocolate if any is safe for a dog (although it would be safest to feed none as it is a poison to them) please take a look at the chart on this link. Onions Macademia nuts Pear pips, the kernels of plums, peaches and apricots, apple core pips (contain cyanogenic glycosides resulting in cyanide posioning) Potato peelings and green looking potatoes Rhubarb leaves Mouldy/spoiled foods Alcohol Yeast dough Coffee grounds, beans & tea (caffeine) Hops (used in home brewing) Tomato leaves & stems (green parts) Broccoli (in large amounts) Raisins and grapes Cigarettes, tobacco, cigars Also think about anti freeze when it comes to that time of year, there's been a lot of cases of dogs licking up anti freeze that has leaked and being poisoned by it RABBITS iceberg lettuce is bad for rabbits, so give them romaine lettuce or any lettuce with dark green leaves. And heres a little list of things I just found that are not good for rabbits: "Amaranth, Arrowgrass, Bracken Fern, Bromweed, Buckeye, Burdock, Castor beans, Chinaberry, Chokecherry leaves or pits, Fireweed, Foxglove, Goldenrod, Hemlock (poison), Horehound, Jimson weed, Johnson grass, Larkspur, Laurel, Lima beans, Lupine, Mesquite, Milkweed, Miner's lettuce, Moldy bread or moldy anything, Oak (not oak leaves), Oleander, Pigweed, Poppy, Potato (leaves, sprouts, or peels), Rhubarb leaves, Soybeans or soybean vines, Spinach, Sweet clover, Tarweed, Tomato leaves" CATS Plants that are hazardous to cats: House plants include: Amaryllis Aphelandra Castor Oil Plant, see Ricinus Christmas Cherry, see Solanum Chrysanthemum, see Dendranthema Codiaeum Croton, see Codiaeum Cyclamen Dumb cane, see Dieffenbachia Dieffenbachia * Devil's Ivy, see Epipremnum aureum Elephant's Ear, see Alocasia, Caladium Epipremnum aureum Ferns Holly, see Ilex Hypoestes phyllostachya Hyacinthus Ivy, see Hedera Mistletoe, see Viscum Nerium oleander Oleander see Nerium Ornithogalum Poinsettia, see Euphorbia Senecio Star of Bethlehem, see Ornithogalum umbellatum Umbrella Plant, see Schefflera Zebra Plant, see Aphelandra Garden Plants include: Abrus precatorius Aconitum * Actaea Aesculus Agrostemma githago Aleurites Allium Alocasia Alstroemeria * Anagallis Anemone Angel's Trumpets, see Brugmansia Angel Wings, see Caladium Apricot, see Prunus armeniaca Aquilegia Arisaema Arum Astragalus Atropa Avocado, see Persea americana Azalea, see Rhododendron Baneberry, see Actaea Bird of Paradise, see Strelitzia Black-eyed Susan, see Thunbergia Bloodroot, see Sanguinaria Box, see Buxus Broom, see Cytisus Brugmansia Bryony Buckthorn, see Rhamnus Burning Bush, see Dictamnus Buttercup, see Ranunculus Buxus Cherry Laurel see Prunus laurocerasus Chincherinchee see Ornithogalum Caesalpinia Caladium Caltha * Catharanthus Celastrus Centaurea cyanus Cestrum Chrysanthemum see Dendranthema Clematis Colchicum Columbine see Aquilegia Conium Convallaria majalis Corncockle, see Agrostemma githago Cornflower, see Centaurea cyanus Cotoneaster Crocus, see Colchicum x Cupressocyparis leylandii * Cyclamen Cytisus Daffodil, see Narcissus Daphne * Datura * Delphinium Delonix Dendranthema * Dicentra Dictamnus Digitalis Echium * Euonymus Euphorbia * Elder, see Sambucus False acacia, see Robinia Fems Ficus Flax see Linum Frangula see Rhamnus Fremontodendron * Foxglove see Digitalis Four o'clock: see Mirabilis jalapa Galanthus Gaultheria Giant Hog Weed, see Heracleum mantegazzianum Gloriosa superba Glory Lily see Gloriosa Hedera * Helleborus * Hemlock, see Conium Henbane, see Hyoscyamus Heracleum mantegazzianum Hippeastrum Holly, see Ilex Horse-chestnut, see Aesculus Hyacinthus Hydrangea Hyoscyamus Impatiens Ipomoea Iris Ivy, see Hedera Ilex Jasminum Juniperus sabina Kalmia Laburnum Lantana Lathyrus Larkspur, see Delphinium Lilium Lily of the Valley, see Convallaria Linum Ligustrum Lobelia (except bedding Lobelia) * Lords and Ladies (Cuckoo pint), see Arum Lupinus Lycopersicon * Lysichiton Madagascar periwinkle, see Catharanthus Marigold, see Tagetes Melia Mirabilis jalapa Monkswood, see Aconitum Morning Glory, see Ipomoea Narcissus Nerium oleander Nicotiana Nightshade, deadly, see Atropa Nightshade, woody, see Solanum Oak, see Quercus Onion, see Allium Oxytropis Paeonia Papaver Parthenocissus Peach, see Prunus persica Peony, see Paeonia Pernettya Persea americana Philodendron Physalis Phytolacca * Pokeweed, see Phytolacca Poppy, see Papaver Polygonatum Primula obconica * Privet see Ligustrum Prunus armeniaca Prunus laurocerasus Prunus persica Quercus Rhamus (including R.frangula) Rhododendron Rhus * Ricinus Robinia Rosary pea, see Abrus precatorius Rubber plant, see Ficus Rudbeckia Rue, see Ruta Ruta Sambucus Sanguinaria Schefflera * Scilla Skunk cabbage, see Lysichiton Snowdrop, see Galanthus Solandra Solanum Solomon's seal, see Polygonatum Spindle Tree, see Euonymus Spurge, see Euphorbia Strelitzia Sumach, see Rhus Sweet pea, see Lathyrus Tagetes Tanacetum Taxus Tetradymia Tobacco, see Nicotiana Tomato, see Lycopersicon Thornapple, see Datura Thuja * Tulipa * Veratrum Viscum Wisteria Yew *Contact with these plants may be sufficient to cause skin irritation And a litte more info courtesy of medusa: A cat would have to eat several whole bulbs of certain plants (such as daffodils) to harm them Plants such as aconitum can kill if they just dig through the roots and then wash themselves. Flowers such as the Lily and Crysanthemum can kill a cat if it just brushes past a cut plant and then washes itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindseyw Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 Buying A Puppy ? Before you even consider buying a puppy: Have you questioned WHY you want a dog. Is it the right reason? Have you researched the breed you like and is that breed suited to your lifestyle and can you meet all the breeds reuirements in full? will you have to leave your dog alone for more than four hours? Can you afford unexpected vet bills, which can run into thousands, or are you willing to have your dog insured to cover for this? Can you commit to caring or your dog for the rest of his life from puppyhood till old age? This includes if you change/loose your job, have children or move house? Have you checked any health problems the breed is prone to and found out what healthchecks the pup and/or his parents should have and acceptable results for these? Finding a good breeder: (Mainly aimed at those looking for a pedigree pup, but many of these points should also be applied to those with 'accidental' crossbreed litters) Contact the kennel club and breed clubs for details of breeders of the dog you are looking for. Avoid if possible classified adverts for puppys, most reputable breeders sell by word of mouth and from their reputation. Try to attend a dog show or two and ask the exibitors questions about the breed and availbility of pups. If possible, try to visit and chat to the breeder BEFORE the pups arrive. If the breeder refuses, be suspicious. No good breeder objects to potential new owners visiting to ask questions and get to know the breed. Do the dogs look well cared for and are the surroundings clean?. Does the breeder show their dogs, work them, or both?. If they do neither, be suspicious of their motives for breeding, particularly if they have multiple dogs. The only valid reason to breed is to improve the breed, as judged by parents or previous offspring who have been successful in the show ring or working curcuit. Expect to be placed on a waiting list. All the best breeders have one. Always buy a KENNEL CLUB registered pup. just because a pup is described as PEDIGREE and may come with a 5 generation pedigree, it does NOT mean he is KC registered. This is the best way to ensure your pup is a purebreed. You will not be permitted to show a non-registered dog in a pedigree show. Or work them at competative level for certain breeds. Nor will you ever be permitted to register any pups that should be bred from that dog. Always see the mother with her pups. If you are not allowed to see mum, walk away. The father may not be there, but ask if he is available for viewing though he could be some distance away. Always choose a breeder who undergoes the recomended healthchecks on their breeding dogs and/or pups.the most common here are Hip scoring and eye testing. Insist on seeing the results on either the parents and pups KC registration documents or the original British Vetrinary Association document the breeder is given by the vet. Make sure results are within acceptable rage according to current breed averages published by the kennel club. Check the Breeders rehoming policy. Should you be unable to keep the puppy bought from them at any point in his life, a good breeder will either rehome them for you, or help you to rehome. Walk away if the breeder does not offer this. Good breeders are concerned for the welfare of a dog they have bred for the REST of his life, not just the first few weeks. Check the breeders policies on vaccinations, worming, microchipping, healthchecks, insurance and DNA testing. Generally speaking, the more done, the better the breeder. When collecting your puppy, make sure the breeder provides you with their contact details and is willing to be contacted should you need any advice. Unless you know the breeder well, NEVER leave without the pups Kennel club Registration documents. "papers to follow" is a common scam and you my never see them. If papers have not arrived when you intend to collect, delay collection and do not be fobbed off with boarding charges. the breeder has had two months to apply for them, Its not your fault. Ask the breeder about their buyers contract. If they don't have one, beware!. This is a two-way agreement between breeder and new owner to ensure the welfare of the dog. PLEASE read it carefully before signing and ensure the breeder signs it too, and save your copy. this is a LEGALLY BINDING document on which both owner and breeder may act. If after doing and considering all this factors, you do not feel comfortable with the breeder, please follow your gut feeling and look elsewhere. Above all, avoid puppy farms and backyard breeders.take time to find and wait for the right puppy, he will be worth it in the long run. A polite note to new owners of KC registered dogs: If you need to rehome your dog, check with the breeder on their rehome policy. Please do not just pass on or sell on the dog or you may end up with a breeched contract, an angry breeder and a court appearence. Good breeders take their dogs and their good name very seriously and will take whatever action is necessary to protect these. If you decide you wish to breed from your Registered dog, please be aware most good breeders will have placed an endorsment on your dogs registration papers, which prevents you from registering any offspring produced from that dog with the kennel club. this can be revoked, but only by the breeder and usually requires you to meet criteria specified by them , normally regarding age, healthchecks etc. Please respect this as good breeders do not take kindly to unregistered pups being sold with the use of their own kennel name given as a parent. The time to request revokation is BEFORE breeding. REMEMBER! A good breeder has everthing to offer, and NOTHING to hide __________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindseyw Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 If you love rabbits you really must check these out for help, advice, welfare, rehoming, supplies and like minded people: http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk http://www.acrs.cjb.net http://www.arba.net http://www.bunnyheaven.com http://www.rabbitnetwork.org http://www.rabbit.org http://www.spacerad.cpm/lara/rabbit.html http://www.veterinarypartners.com http://www.oxbowhay.com http://www.therabbitcharity.freeserve.co.uk http://www.geocities.com/Petsburgh/6989/main.html http://www.rabbitweb.net http://www.rainbowsbridge.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindseyw Posted July 16, 2007 Author Share Posted July 16, 2007 Need To Worm Your Rabbitt - Look Here: http://www.sheffieldforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=2442435 Not comon practice currently but it should be. Panacur Rabbit has just been remarketed by vets as a annual treatment against parasites in rabbits. It should now be offered alongside your routine vaccinations against Myxi and VHD. Heres why you should use it: It is not common knowledge that rabbits suffer from the same worms and parasites as many other animals but they do and symptoms such as weightloss are often a common side effect. If your rabbit has not been wormed then symptoms such as this may be attributed to parasites when really the cause is something more serious such as maloclussion or kidney damage. However the best reason to get your rabbit wormed is to protect against a parasite known as E.Cuniculi. It is estimated that 1 in 2 domestic rabbits are exposed to this infectious parasite during their lives. Many contract it from their mother at birth. EC can cause neurological damage and head tilt, blindness, weight loss and organ damage such as renal failure if left untreated. Ultimately this will end in death. Please have your rabbit wormed every year or, if you aquire a rabbit, along with its first vacaccinations and at anytime when you add a new rabbit to your family. I have seen first hand how devastating the effects of this parasite can be, dont let your rabbit go through it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Ferret Symptoms and Possible Causes Eyes Bulging or swollen eyes Glaucoma Runny or watery eyes Allergy, cold Pus Conjunctivitis Brown crusting Distemper White spot or "disk" in eye/s Cataract Blindness Cataract Mouth Pale gums Anemia, low blood pressure Red, sore or bleeding gums Tarter buildup; gingivitis Bluish gray gums Lack of Oxygen Blackened teeth Dead tooth Dark or stained teeth Age, tetracycline as kit Rash on chin and lips Distemper Drooling Insulinoma seizure; poison Clenched teeth Insulinoma seizure Scratching at mouth Broken tooth, nausea Vomiting Foreign body, ulcers, ECE; hairballs; poison Vomiting blood Internal hemorrhage Panting Heat stroke; severe pain; insulinoma seizure Nose Sore on Nose Infection Runny nose, sneezing Runny nose, sneezing Short, broken whiskers Poor nutrition, ill health Dark pink or red Insulinoma seizure Bright red Hypothermia (heat stroke) Ears Black inside Excessive dirt Black inside, itching Mites Yellow Hepatitis Bad smell Excessive dirt; yeast-type infection Growth Tumor; infected bite Loss of hair on ears Another ferret chewing on them Deafness Congenital, Wardenburg's Syndrome (panda pattern); infection Paws "Splayed" feet Housed on wire Hair loss Age, adrenal disease Dry pads Clay litter Dark pink pads Insulinoma seizure Bright red pads Hyperthermia (heat stroke) Rough, thickened pads Distemper Roughened, scratched pads Lost outside for significant period; housed outdoors/dirt/cement Long quick Not regularly clipped Nail torn out Caught on bedding; on cage wire Curled toes Age, weak hindquarters Legs Limping Stepped on Staggering Insulinoma; stroke; ear infection Stiffness Arthritis; age; over-caged Weakness in hindquarters Age; arthritis; low blood sugar; general illness Tail Kinked Previously broken; birth defect Lump at end Chondromas Black spots Blackheads Hair loss Blackheads; age; adrenal disease Fur & Skin Dry Sleeping in litter; poor nutrition; age; general illness Black spots Flea dirt Fur falling out Seasonal coat change; poor nutrition; stress; flea allergy Guard hair sparse Regrowth of coat Thinning Age; unnatural light cycle; adrenal disease; in heat or rut Pattern Loss: At base of tail Adrenal disease Along side back Adrenal disease Up back Adrenal disease "Graying" Natural silvering pattern; age Flaking skin Flea dermatitis; poor nutrition; allergies; over-shampooing Yellowed Hepatitis Reddened, rough skin Allergies; fleas; sunburn; bites from others "Pinched" skin stays pinched Dehydration Wart-like growths Skin tumors Dark brown or black "moles" Ticks "Puffy," inflamed areas Abscess Sore slow to heal Diabetes; adrenal disease; cancer Lungs Coughing Cold, heart disease; lymphosarcoma Wheezing Allergy; heart disease; pneumonia Rapid breathing Heat stroke; pain Difficult breathing Heart disease; pneumonia; lymphosarcoma; heartworm Stomach/Spleen Stomach distension Intestinal blockage; heart disease; poison; internal tumor "Lopsided" abdomen Enlarged spleen Hardened area along abdomen Enlarged spleen Anorexia Stomach or mouth ulcers; ECE Urination/Defacation Male "dribbling" or crying Urinary tract blockage; bladder stones; kidney infection; adrenal disease "Sand" in urine Bladder stones Heavy urination &/or excessive thirst Diabetes; kidney infection Inability to urinate Kidney failure; blockage Inability to defecate Internal blockage Diarrhea Dairy products; food allergies; stress; coccidia; camphobacter Green diarrhea Upset stomach; stress; ECE Dark, tarry stool Too many raisins; bleeding Blood in stool Internal hemorrhage, cancer Fabric or odd objects in stool Eating fabric or toys Frequent, small stool Poor rectal muscles Protrusion from anus Rectal prolapse Draining area near anus Anal gland impaction Reproductive Organs Bleeding penis Caught on something Growth on penis Tumor "Dragging" penis across things Territorial marking; adrenal disease Swollen vulva In heat; leftover ovarian tissue; adrenal disease Pus or discharge from vulva Infection; adrenal disease Overall Body Temperature over 103 Fever Temperature under 95 Hypothermia; serious illness Severe anemia Lengthy heat cycle; internal tumor; severely enlarged spleen Limp upon awakening Baby sleep; low blood sugar; insulinoma Comatose Insulinoma; stroke Uncontrollable shivers/tremors Shock; poison Convulsions Insulinoma seizure; epilepsy; poison; shock Wasting Cancer; age; internal blockage; internal parasite Enlarged lymph nodes Infection; cold/flu; lymphosarcoma Blood sugar level under 80 Anorexia; insulinoma Behavior Fainting Insulinoma Lethargy Anemia; low glucose; age; heart disease; illness "Listing " to one side Ear infection; mites; stroke Walking in circles Stroke Excessive grooming Stress; adrenal disease Biting when startled Blind; deaf Biting other ferrets Blind; dominance issues Hopping & leaping PLAYING! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 BIRDS POISONING From a Teflon pan remove the bird to a well ventilated area contact vet imediatley. Ingested a toxin such as a plant or a household cleaner. If you believe your bird has ingested a toxin its important to have the name of the toxin the active ingredients how much was consumed when the ingestion occurred and any symptoms the bird is currently showing.Contact vet imediatley. insect sprays, bathe the bird immediately and contact your vet burns Run cold water over the affected area for several minutes. Then dry the area gently with gauze and apply cold compresses. If the burn is severe take your bird immediately to your vet. Burns may cause a bird to go into shock and need prompt care. Typically, antibiotics will also be prescribed to prevent infection. chill This can be due to illness or injury or even shock. If its due to environmental conditions such as drafts fix the problem or relocate the bird. Provide a warm environment supply heat with a heat lamp or hot water bottle wrapped in a towel. Take extreme care not to burn the bird. Keep the temperature about 85-90ºF. broken blood feather This will bleed a lot pack the broken shaft with styptic powder or flour.Apply pressure with a gauze .However this is easy to treat but would only advise doing so if you have ever done this before.Remove the feather completely by pulling the shaft out.Bleeding should now stop. bleeding from tongue This contains many blood vessels and if injured, may bleed profusely. vet attention immediately minor wounds If your bird has a small, superficial, and nonbleeding wound not caused by an animal, clean the wound with chlorhexidine Use tweezers to remove any dirt or feathers. apply small amount of antibiotic ointment.. Do not allow the bird to pick at it. In case of deeper cuts or wounds,consult vet as further treatment may be necessary. cat or dog attack Handle the bird quietly and calmly to avoid adding more stress. Keep the bird quiet and warm keep in a dark place exp cardboard box.If the wound is bleeding apply direct pressure with a gauze gently.If this fails diluted bottled wich hazel can be pored into the wound this will narrow blood vesles and slow down the bleeding. Transport the bird to your vet immediately. Check for broken bones. If a wing is broken wrap both wings loosely to the body with gauze and then tape to prevent further injury from flapping the wing/wings. Do not tape tightly or the bird will not be able to breathe. If theres a broken leg this is best left for a vet to deal with but a drinking straw or feather quill split all the way down the centre can make a ideal splint. Twitching Tail This can be a signe of many problems.Egg bound constipation other illness. If egg bound then amediate action is required would recomend a vet unless you have revmoved eggs before that comes with dangers though of shell breaking and causing internal injuries.Keep bird warm apply olive oil sometimes help to pass egg.Same go,s for constipation.If its just due to being unwell could try again keeping bird warm heat works wonders add Cod Liver oil/Olive Oil/Castor Oil/Aniseed essance/or honey to seed.All the oils can also be given internaly for egg bound or constipation. It can also mean the bird is in Labour unless you know other wise. Eyes Birds eye closed sticky could be due to a cold/conjunctavitus or other infection possible forign body or attack from other bird.Best always seak vets advise.If self treating simplest eye wash is honey diluted into a wash with hot water and cooled.Carbomber gel as a lubricant more serious infections Chloramhenicol drops. Optrex eye wash also can be used. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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