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Recent visit to Sheffield by an ex pat


soft ayperth

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I just returned to Canada from an extended visit to Sheffield. I left Sheffield 40 yrs ago and have made only sporadic short visits since then. On this trip I was able to form some impressions of how the city has developed.

 

On the positive side, I was very impressed with the Fargate walking strip, the Moor (which I realize has long been traffic free), the Millenium Square, Winter Gardens and Peace Gardens, which, while I prefer them the way they used to be in the 50s and 60s (lots of grass and flower beds), are much better than the most recent version of them that embodied a lot of masonry at the expense of vegetation. The Western Park Museum is much improved with exhibits thematically arranged around the local scene. The library, especially the Local Studies section and the Archives, is first rate.Trout breaching in the Don? A great sight. Public transport, especially the super trams, is very good. And the people? Friendly, down to earth, just like I remember them. One bus driver even called me "luv." Did I mention seeing the Owls play at Hillsboro and thumping Scunthorpe 4-0?

 

On the negative side, the whole area around the bottom of Duke Street, Broad Street and Sheaf Street took a dive for the worst many years ago. Then, there are the drivers. Sorry, but I felt like I was taking my life in my hands. Reckless racing across crosswalks that had given the green light for pedestrians to cross. Then, there are the taxis, in which the custom seems to be for the tourist to explain to the driver where his or her destination is. Simple solution would be to equip all taxis with an inexpensive GPS. The fare was a surprise at the end of the journey, varying from 7.70 to 12.70 pounds for the same trip.

 

Just wondered if any other ex pats have been back recently and have any impressions to share.

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Hi RoG, Sheffield is always a bittersweet experience for me. The changes around town are startling if you haven't been back for a while. Then my old friends want to take me down Sheffield to the the Flashy bars and give me weird looks when I say I would prefer just go hang out at old local pub. The last few times I went back I actually avoided going down Sheffield instead I was happiest going see a family members in Chapeltown, Oughtibridge, an old mate in Gleadless, Sunday afternoon in Derbyshire - Go for a walk around and pop in the pub..... priceless

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Hi RoG, Sheffield is always a bittersweet experience for me. The changes around town are startling if you haven't been back for a while. Then my old friends want to take me down Sheffield to the the Flashy bars and give me weird looks when I say I would prefer just go hang out at old local pub. The last few times I went back I actually avoided going down Sheffield instead I was happiest going see a family members in Chapeltown, Oughtibridge, an old mate in Gleadless, Sunday afternoon in Derbyshire - Go for a walk around and pop in the pub..... priceless

 

My feelings exactly, St John. I'd much rather go into a neighborhood pub, have a pint of one of the traditional ales, and a chat. Some of the pubs downtown were a bit on the flashy side but one or two were quite quaint and featured blues artists. OK if you're in the mood. I found the range of beers on tap to be quite extensive, not like the old days when many pubs offered just one brand. I stayed away from brands like Coors and Heineken (why travel to Sheffield for those?), sampled a few of the microbrewery ones with strange names, but heaven came down when I found a pub that had Stones (Stoonzes) on tap. Came out cloudy, settled clear, went down smoothly. The Rivelin. Great Sunday dinner btw.

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I've been back in Sheffield for a couple of months following a 25 year absence. Amazed at some of the changes, not all for the best. Used to work on St Pauls Parade and am sad to see the lovely old building I worked in is now part of a coffee bar. On the plus side at least it is being looked after, I remember almost 30 years ago there was a petition to save St Pauls Parade from the bulldozers! I used to love shopping on Fargate but not much there now unless you want a mobile phone, having said that it's much the same in the town where I live. I used to spend many a Sunday afternoon walking up Abbeydale Road looking in all the antique shops, they seem to have gone too and the prospect of aa Sunday walk there no longer appeals. My biggest regret is the loss of the hole in the road as it always bought back happy memories of going into town with my Grandad who died in 1977. The bus used to go round the hole before we got off to go to Redgates. Happy times. It's always sad to see how things have changed if you have happy memories of them but nothing stays the same too long anymore. One thing that hasn't changed is the feeling that this is home (even after 25 years away!) and the joy of hearing that wonderful Sheffield accent that always makes me feel I'm with friends. This is one ex-Sheffielder that can't wait to come back despite the changes.

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Then, there are the taxis, in which the custom seems to be for the tourist to explain to the driver where his or her destination is. Simple solution would be to equip all taxis with an inexpensive GPS. The fare was a surprise at the end of the journey, varying from 7.70 to 12.70 pounds for the same trip.

 

 

Hi RoG, taxi drivers the world over are now becoming pretty much the same! Hopefully London drivers still have to do 'the knowledge'.

 

The problem seems to be that most of them are newly arrived immigrant drivers who find it difficult if not impossible to find other work.

 

It is the same problem in Australia and, in fact, it's in your interest to check out the route first as it can save you a LOT of money!

 

Having had my first trip back to Sheffield in '06 for 24 years, I think you have summed it up very well. Except think the Peace Gardens are awful compared to what they were.

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One thing that hasn't changed is the feeling that this is home (even after 25 years away!) and the joy of hearing that wonderful Sheffield accent that always makes me feel I'm with friends. This is one ex-Sheffielder that can't wait to come back despite the changes.

 

Spot on there texas01. I remember getting on a bus in town to go to the Botanical Gardens. A couple of guys hear me ask the driver to let me know when we arrive at the right bus stop. I sit on the opposite side of the aisle from them.

 

"Ar tha not from eer then?" asks one

 

I explain I used to live here but been away for a long time.

 

"Way tha'll like it in Botanical Gardens. Nice flowers. Theez a bear pit in theer tha knows."

 

Conversation went on like this for a long while. We talked about baiting bears, circuses and fairgrounds, coconut stands and women with beards, what it's like in Canada, of course the weather. The whole bus listening in. After they get off the woman next to me says "Them men talked a lot dint they?"

 

"Yes," I chuckle. "They were just great."

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Brilliant isn't it RogG!! It may have something to do with the fact that my beloved Grandad had a very broad Sheffield accent but it never fails to make me smile. Amazing how hearing an accent can warm you to someone straight away. I'm living in Suffolk now and if I get a hint of a Sheffield accent I'm there asking where they come from!

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