L00b Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 With most newer cars, you're advised not to do this:thumbsup:.Why? Most cars I'm familiar with, still run the engine at around 1,000 RPM or more from cold for a short while, before gradually reducing the RPM to normal idle. The issue, with snow/icy weather, is that this effectively revs the car too high for safe manoeuvering/driving (unless you fancy working the clutch more than you have to, for this short while) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Six Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 Why? Most cars I'm familiar with, still run the engine at around 1,000 RPM or more from cold for a short while, before gradually reducing the RPM to normal idle. The issue, with snow/icy weather, is that this effectively revs the car too high for safe manoeuvering/driving (unless you fancy working the clutch more than you have to, for this short while) I think it's because the car will warm more quickly if you drive it, and a warm engine is a happy engine. Says he with a dodgy thermostat and an engine that never warms up properly. I've not had a car that idles so fast in the cold that it has made it hard to control. Just let the clutch up slowly with it in gear and the load will slow it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Wallace* Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Most valuable advice i can give is to spend half an hour with your head under the bonnet checking fluid levels condition of anti freeze etc give everything a good old spray with WD 40 and as has been said above please clear your windows and lights and make sure your phone is charged just in case you need it.Be safe people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L00b Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 I think it's because the car will warm more quickly if you drive it, and a warm engine is a happy engine.But that is true of any car (newer or not...and at least, with old cars, you "had a say" in the choke level). Sorry, I'm still at sccsux's post. I've not had a car that idles so fast in the cold that it has made it hard to control. Just let the clutch up slowly with it in gear and the load will slow it down.The issue, with snow/icy weather, is that this effectively revs the car too high for safe manoeuvering/driving (unless you fancy working the clutch more than you have to, for this short while) Obviously you don't live on or near a steep, not council-cleared incline (e.g. my "cold idle" is too fast for engine-braking down the incline, careful use of my brakes could work, but normal idle works better/is safer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadingNorth Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Learn to decelerate your car using gears alone (5>4>3>2). Only last week, I heard an Advanced Driving instructor crucify someone for trying to use this method. Which, I have to say, I found a little odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightFlight Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Winter tyres! Got ours fitted on Friday and today have been negotiating the roads easier than the 4x4s we've passed. They are seriously excellent and make such a huge difference. +1 Summer/all purpose tyres aren't designed for use on snow. The tread pattern isn't good at gripping the loose surface and isn't good at getting through the snow to the tarmac beneath. The rubber used on summer/all purpose tyres is not designed for use at low temperatures. it hardens up and doesn't grip as well. Winter tyres are designed to still be soft and grippy at low temperatures and have big blocks of tread for gripping and clearing out snow form the grooves. I kitted my car out for £250 including some second hand alloys so it's not as if it's expensive to do. I'd also suggest finding a nice empty car park and having some fun in it, get used to how the car feels when it begins to slip. Get used to that feeling of having no steering so you can appreciate how much trouble you'll be in if it happens in public. Get used to how quick you can actually drive before you start getting problems with steering/braking so you don't become one of those 3mph crawlers holding everybody up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
convert Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Turn off your traction control when trying to drive up steep inclines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxon51 Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 And if you own a car with rear light clusters situated at either sde of your rear window - Focus being an example, please, please don't scrape your rear window but leave either side of it covered in snow. Remember that your side indicator repeaters need to be visible too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kthebean Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Only last week, I heard an Advanced Driving instructor crucify someone for trying to use this method. Which, I have to say, I found a little odd. This is why I never take driving advice, every expert has a different opinion. Use my method. Close your eyes and cross your fingers. The street is your ice rink, baby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L00b Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Only last week, I heard an Advanced Driving instructor crucify someone for trying to use this method. Which, I have to say, I found a little odd.I'd be interested in the reasons the Advanced Driving Instructor cited/quoted for his "crucifying". (PS - I have trained AD myself...just not the kind you get from driving shools, more the kind you get to cart Gvt types/VIPs about ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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