Redyam Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 You could always get a professional in to have a look and make some recommendations. Today I have just had some damp proof work done on my mid-terrace house, built around 1900. One wall was 'tanked', to create a waterproof barrier to stop any water. The other walls were drilled and a special material was inserted into the walls. They also gave some good advice about what might be causing the different types, I.e penetrative and rising. We used Timberwise, and they seemed pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppins Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 There are different types available; you can buy a wash which you simply paint onto walls before painting them with your normal paint, for example this stuff from B&Q http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/decorating-sundries/treatments-cleaners-protection/cleaners/B-and-Q-Fungicidal-Wash-Clear-1L-9190533 or you can just buy paint which has the stuff in it such as this http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint/specialist-paints/anti_damp_paint/Ronseal-Anti-Mould-Paint-Matt-2-5L-11348502 or this http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint/specialist-paints/anti_damp_paint/Ronseal-One-Coat-Anti-Damp-Paint-White-10299598 Thank you Serg, interesting thread, I have some dampness in my house, long story, I have something called KILLS on my bathroom ceilings , might be same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnvqsos Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 You could always get a professional in to have a look and make some recommendations. Today I have just had some damp proof work done on my mid-terrace house, built around 1900. One wall was 'tanked', to create a waterproof barrier to stop any water. The other walls were drilled and a special material was inserted into the walls. They also gave some good advice about what might be causing the different types, I.e penetrative and rising. We used Timberwise, and they seemed pretty good. Was the tanked wall below ground;if not you have been sold a pup.Any penetration can be prevented by repointing or re-rendering,and attending to rainwater goods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I too have one wall with what I think is rising damp. The outside looks fine. It is rendered and there doesn't appear to be any cracks. The inside....feels cold and damp to the touch for about the first 2 feet from floor level. The rest of the wall is fine. The wall is solid sandstone. Son in law suggests to repair from the inside...remove the plaster and repoint to about a meter high, then replaster. He's not a builder...hence I ask the question, will this cure the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sibon Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I too have one wall with what I think is rising damp. The outside looks fine. It is rendered and there doesn't appear to be any cracks. The inside....feels cold and damp to the touch for about the first 2 feet from floor level. The rest of the wall is fine. The wall is solid sandstone. Son in law suggests to repair from the inside...remove the plaster and repoint to about a meter high, then replaster. He's not a builder...hence I ask the question, will this cure the problem? You need a proper survey doing. If it is rising damp, the cure is simple and quite cheap. It involves removing the first metre or so of plaster, injecting a damp proofing course into the bricks, then replastering. Takes a day or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks sibon. That confirms the idea of a cure from the inside of the property. All I need now is a local builder that knows his job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spider1 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I too have one wall with what I think is rising damp. The outside looks fine. It is rendered and there doesn't appear to be any cracks. The inside....feels cold and damp to the touch for about the first 2 feet from floor level. The rest of the wall is fine. The wall is solid sandstone. Son in law suggests to repair from the inside...remove the plaster and repoint to about a meter high, then replaster. He's not a builder...hence I ask the question, will this cure the problem? No if its rising damp /remove plaster 3feet high then have wall injected with silicone dpc by specialist Then re plaster with[ Renovating plaster] important its grey in colour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrogo Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I'm no builder, but you could do the following checks: 1. Is the guttering and down pipe overflowing with water when it rains. 2. Any sign of moss growing on the wall 3. Does the pointing look ok 4. Any tiles off the roof 5. Does the property have a cavity wall?, If no cavety wall, you could put up some battons and some boards in the effected rooms. This would reduce the cold surface of the wall so water is less likely to condense against it. 6. Check that the external air bricks haven't been blocked up. INSIDE THE HOUSE 90% of all dampness problems in houses tends to be water already in the air condensing against cold surfaces such as north facing walls and windows (even double glazzed). Showering with the bathroom window closed and door open will allow steam to travel around the upstairs, landing, stairs and hallway. As it cools down it will condense to water droplets on the walls. In the kitchen, using a tumble dryer can cause the same problem, even if its a self condensing system. The seals arnt going to be perfect forever. Check the walls at the back of the tumbler to see if they have black mould and dampness on them. Drying washing in the house is another popular way of causing condensation and mould. I somtimes get it on the wallpaper above my radiators because of the damp clothes against it. In our efforts to restrict drafts and stop heat escaping we have caused condensation. Also, if you have a loft conversion, the loft was the space where moist air could circulate the cavety walls into the loft space and then escape. Don't be mislead that halothane paint will stop dampness, it doesn't. its only a treatment for mould. Opening the windows in a morning can't be anymore sounder advice. The old people on my street do it all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matsalleh Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 You need a proper survey doing. If it is rising damp, the cure is simple and quite cheap. It involves removing the first metre or so of plaster, injecting a damp proofing course into the bricks, then replastering. Takes a day or so. Can a damp proof course be done on a house without a cavity wall? We are talking 1900 built houses here. Or is this being done internally somehow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrogo Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Can a damp proof course be done on a house without a cavity wall? We are talking 1900 built houses here. Or is this being done internally somehow? Usually, if the plastering has to be chopped back its because the wall has become infected with toxic mildew. The brickwork is then infected with anti fungiside and replastered. The damp course layer of bricks tends to run at below floor level so it would have to be injected with silicon externally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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