got2bepink Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 No, sorry don't know there e-mail address. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modforlife Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Cromwell tools, and Alltools on Staniforth Rd both offer repair services. I've used both and can recommend them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harrisonfin Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Hire station do repairs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po999 Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Inspired by this thread, I decided to take my electric drill for repair. It's only a domestic hammer drill, bought from Wickes years ago for doing just the odd job around the house and maybe occasionally in the garden. The problem is where the electric cable enters the drill. It has split and started to show a bare wire. I've been quoted 24 quid for a re-wire / repair. (£20 + VAT) I can buy a brand new drill for £19 including VAT ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woolyhead Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 Thanks Got2bepink and others. OK Mihal, no problem. I think the torque limiter must be the same unit as the hammer mechanism and with both of the hammer plates held together by spring pressure which is adjustable so as to give different torques at which they slip. For hammering, the plate most remote from the chuck becomes non rotational and pushed up against the rotating plate so that it has to bump past it and this causes hammering to occur. In other words when hammering is selected the components inside the drill are reconfigured. This can be done by applying a brake to and removing rotation from, the stationary plate. How does that sound, Bonjon? So far I've had no replyfrom any businesses mentioned, asking them to confirm how this all works. Maybe it's a state secret? ---------- Post added 26-04-2013 at 18:48 ---------- Inspired by this thread, I decided to take my electric drill for repair. It's only a domestic hammer drill, bought from Wickes years ago for doing just the odd job around the house and maybe occasionally in the garden. The problem is where the electric cable enters the drill. It has split and started to show a bare wire. I've been quoted 24 quid for a re-wire / repair. (£20 + VAT) I can buy a brand new drill for £19 including VAT ! Hiya PO999. All you need do with the bare wire is to switch the power off (obviously) and unplug from the power until the job is completed. This is very important and you must do it. Then split the two halves of the drill case (screwdriver job), undo the cable clamp and note which colour wires went where. Then remove these three wires (if there's no earth wire (brown) in the cable, it's probably because the insulation of the drill is so good that it doesn't need an earth wire). Plastic cases may be like this. Then cut the power cable back at the damaged end until you've got nice fresh, well insulated cable and carefully remove its insulation, giving you bare wire from the end to the appropriate distance from the end (usually about 10mm) so that you can twist all the separate fine wires in each colour group and reconnect them to where the other wires came from, without having any bits of wire sticking out to where they might touch the wrong places. You may possibly need to use a soldering iron to do this replacement. If so, be careful. I like to solder along the twisted wires to hold them all together before I reconnect them. Check that you haven't burned through the insulation anywhere or left any wires sticking out. If you have, correct this. This should do the job but if you've got a resistance meter (< £30 in DIY shops), measure the resistance between the mains plug's live pin (L), (but not with it plugged in of course) and earth and the case and repeat between L and neutral (N). You shouldn't have less than about 100K ohms with the drill switched off. When you switch it on (still not plugged in) the resistance should reduce but should not become less than about 100 ohms. If these approximate limits are not met you may have caused a short circuit with your replaced wires. The resistance between the mains plug earth pin (E) and a metal drill's case must not exceed about 1 ohm for safety purposes. Plastic cases may not have an earth connection so ignore the earth-to-case measurement. This sounds all very complicated but it isn't really. IT'S ONLY WORDS. Actually doing the job is easy once you know how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po999 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Hiya PO999. All you need do with the bare wire is to switch the power off (obviously) and unplug from the power until the job is completed. This is very important and you must do it. Then split the two halves of the drill case (screwdriver job), undo the cable clamp and note which colour wires went where...... Then remove these three wires (if there's no earth wire in the cable, it's probably because the insulation of the drill is so good that it doesn't need an earth wire). I like to solder along the twisted wires to hold them all together before I reconnect them...... This sounds all very complicated but it isn't really. IT'S ONLY WORDS. Actually doing the job is easy once you know how. Thanks for that - very helpful ! There are seven screws holding the two halves of the drill case together and, rather annoyingly, they are not the regular kind of screw heads. They appear to have a star shape screw head and I certainly do not have that type of screwdriver. Where can I get one ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handypandy Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 There are seven screws holding the two halves of the drill case together and, rather annoyingly, they are not the regular kind of screw heads. They appear to have a star shape screw head and I certainly do not have that type of screwdriver. Where can I get one ? A good all round set HERE . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peak4 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 A good all round set HERE . Andy, Obviously I don't know what sort of drill is being referred to here, but those are TORX bit inserts (amongst others) The screws on power tools are often at the bottom of quite a deep hole, so you might not be able to get them in as the bit holder is of too large a diameter. Better to take the drill to a toolshop (just to confirm the size required) and then buy a handled TORX driver or a set of TORX keys, similar to Allen keys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po999 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 WICKES PERCUSSION DRILL 450 WATTS 240 VOLTS 2.0 AMPS 50 HERTZ 0-2800 RPM CAPACITY IN STEEL 10mm MADE IN GERMANY Well I feel pretty proud of myself ! I bought a set of 10 screw drivers from POUNDLAND of all places ! YES - a quid for 10 various star shaped drivers. Unbelievable value. It took me just 20 minutes to split the drill in two, remove four inches of cable (to remove the broken bit) and replace everything. . . . . and it actually works again !!!! Marvellous. Thanx everyone - and thanx POUNDLAND - you just saved me £23 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handypandy Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 The screws on power tools are often at the bottom of quite a deep hole, so you might not be able to get them in as the bit holder is of too large a diameter. Good point Didn't connect brain before replying Anyway well done to po999 in solving it for a quid ! . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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