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Recommendations for "posh" restaurant


lwillis

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I would have said Thyme in Crosspool but when I went there last week I was a little disturbed by what was served. The ingredients were good quality but clashed - big time.

 

A slice of terrine packed with hams and blue cheese served with fruit chutney and a slice of spiced loaf. The biggest clash of the day, this assemblage of parts created the antidote to all previous philosophical assertions; the epitome of anti-gestalt – the whole is less than the sum of the parts. A fascinating slice of brioche-like loaf tasting of cinnamon/nutmeg-style spices with an intriguing crunchy, sweet crust clashes garishly with a beautifully crafted slice of terrine containing ham that tastes like ham – good piggy flavours to be proud of vying for premier position with a blue cheese that wants to be boss in its own right. I could almost hear the screams as each component of the terrine tore into the other. Who was going to overpower whom? One thing is for certain; the brioche style bread and the chutney (a harmless, welcoming concoction that would cheer up any after-dinner plate of English Cheddar) will not survive in this slaughter of tastes to-the-death. One crass faux-pas – the brioche had been plated early and so had a dried surface (but the underbelly was fresh).

 

The main course of vegetable tagine was made of well-flavoured vegetables in an inoffensive sauce .... or so I thought... until the chilli hit me! Tagine, let me see now, Tagine, that translates as almonds, apricots, figs, chicken, subtle, under-played? – but chilli? No. I don’t think of chilli. Another road traffic accident: a clash of cultures as much as a clash of food.

 

The dessert: dubbed cinnamon Crème Brulée it was in reality two dishes. In the blue corner, a crème brulée that I found disturbing. A bit like watching the first few moments of the shower scene in Psycho. I felt grim portents. The crunchy upper layer gave way to a murky stodge that was innocuous but not appealing, creamy – but then so is Pollyfilla before it sets. Probably okay to eat if you are blindfolded but something sinister in this dish. The ramekin was too small so they had to put a second dessert on the plate in the red corner. One that had nothing to do with crème brulee. A fizzy boule of cidery apple on a rectangular, apple-ringed tartin. Each component in imminent danger of nuclear collision. My eyes and mouth awaited the impact.

 

Overall the chef clearly lives up to the innovation claim and can produce good, high quality and wholesome food but needs to be treated for schizophrenia of the palette.

 

Of course, good company can improve the enjoyment of any meal.

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JonJParr, I guess you weren't too keen?

 

I'm glad it's not just me that finds Thyme a weird and overrated experience.

 

Thyme Cafe is even more bizarre ! :)

 

 

Now Fischers.... mmm there is a proper restaurant that can cook without the proprietor in the kitchen all the time!

 

Chefs really should concentrate on running kitchens and dining rooms, not playing around with odd stuff and consulting on amateurs restaurateur ambitions.

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