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Old Reliant Regal


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First i bought this years ago been stood in garrage ages.Got it back on road now but is overheating.

Its got new rad and cap alleady so ruling that out.Head seams perfect not losing any water yes there,s water in it lol.Water pump ok thermostat new also sensor had full service new plugs points condensor.Timing spot on ign/valve not burning oil.Carb is spot as ive allready tried that from one of my others.

No air locks.

Any other ideas welcome.

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It is possible to put a thermostat in slightly wrong on some cars. I don`t mean upside down, I mean something less obvious- turned about 45 degrees away from the correct position for example. To be sure or to eliminate the thermostat as the cause, you could remove the thermostat-at least temporarily. (Some new thermostats have been known to be faulty). If the car is over heating due to the head gasket it will still overheat with the thermostat removed.

 

On the MK2 Robin there is also a heater valve between the thermostat & heater. If there is one on the Regal, you could check this part. The cause could even be an air lock. (See first link below)

 

Below is a link describing how to eliminate/prevent airlocks on the cooling system of Reliants. https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/water-coolant-stuff

 

Here is a link to the Reliant World forum.

http://www.reliantworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?33032-Curing-airlocks-Bleeding-the-cooling-system&p=376249&posted=1#post376249

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Get a compression test done, you can't tell the condition of the head gasket by just looking at it.
soz thats been done no problem.

 

---------- Post added 20-05-2013 at 15:03 ----------

 

It is possible to put a thermostat in slightly wrong on some cars. I don`t mean upside down, I mean something less obvious- turned about 45 degrees away from the correct position for example. To be sure or to eliminate the thermostat as the cause, you could remove the thermostat-at least temporarily. (Some new thermostats have been known to be faulty). If the car is over heating due to the head gasket it will still overheat with the thermostat removed.

 

On the MK2 Robin there is also a heater valve between the thermostat & heater. If there is one on the Regal, you could check this part. The cause could even be an air lock. (See first link below)

 

Below is a link describing how to eliminate/prevent airlocks on the cooling system of Reliants. https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/water-coolant-stuff

 

Here is a link to the Reliant World forum.

http://www.reliantworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?33032-Curing-airlocks-Bleeding-the-cooling-system&p=376249&posted=1#post376249

 

Tried running with no thermo still over heats.No heater valve and no air locks as stated gone all through that.Thanks

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Could be a wheel missing on front chassis might be scraping on road and over heating.

Seriously when you say over heats how long we talking 10 mins 30mis.

I know you said you checked head with compression etc but do,s it run better with choke on or will it choke engine up if kept on.

You say not loosing water but is there any coming from exhaust more than normal always get a tiny bit but doubt it would this weather.Also should not be any singe of water in oil should not be milky frothy lol.

Water pump what kind of inspection have you actually removed it to see condition of blades.And theres no oil on pulley causing it to slip i guess.

Is there a oil pressure gauge if so is the oil pressure ok

Is there anything that will bring temp down slightly like running internal heaters.

If all these prove to be ok think i can tell you the problem but its not good im afraid and there,s only one simple way to prove it not expensive but a pane to get too and replace just to find out.

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Could be a wheel missing on front chassis might be scraping on road and over heating.

Seriously when you say over heats how long we talking 10 mins 30mis.

I know you said you checked head with compression etc but do,s it run better with choke on or will it choke engine up if kept on.

You say not loosing water but is there any coming from exhaust more than normal always get a tiny bit but doubt it would this weather.

Water pump what kind of inspection have you actually removed it to see condition of blades.And theres no oil on pulley causing it to slip i guess.

Is there a oil pressure gauge if so is the oil pressure ok

 

Off topic so apologies,but whats the bike on your profile terminater,looks british bsa maybe:)

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The cabin heaters all work ok, hot as they should be?

All the hoses get to the correct temperature?

 

Can you check the temperature sensor with a multimeter to make sure it's giving expected readings?

 

How hot is it getting?

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Could be a wheel missing on front chassis might be scraping on road and over heating.

Seriously when you say over heats how long we talking 10 mins 30mis.

I know you said you checked head with compression etc but do,s it run better with choke on or will it choke engine up if kept on.

You say not loosing water but is there any coming from exhaust more than normal always get a tiny bit but doubt it would this weather.Also should not be any singe of water in oil should not be milky frothy lol.

Water pump what kind of inspection have you actually removed it to see condition of blades.And theres no oil on pulley causing it to slip i guess.

Is there a oil pressure gauge if so is the oil pressure ok

Is there anything that will bring temp down slightly like running internal heaters.

If all these prove to be ok think i can tell you the problem but its not good im afraid and there,s only one simple way to prove it not expensive but a pane to get too and replace just to find out.

No water in oil or out of exhaust ,choke working fine,water pump been off replaced,no oil on pully, bolt tight not slipping,yes oil presssure good,nothing will bring temp down,Oh not sure about time 10 mins 15 max then boiling bubbleing really hot.So whats next.By the way are you not doing Reliants anymore be supprised how many garrages wont even touch them ?

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