geared Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Could be a blockage in a waterway, if it's been sat and rust has formed a blob could have lodged in a waterway?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
destroyer Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 The cabin heaters all work ok, hot as they should be? All the hoses get to the correct temperature? Can you check the temperature sensor with a multimeter to make sure it's giving expected readings? How hot is it getting? Sensor working fine heaters too hot lol. May not be but seems to be boling point bubbles gauge well in red. PS hoses all hot ---------- Post added 20-05-2013 at 16:47 ---------- Going to have another look will let you know but runniing out off ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geared Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 If the gauge is that hot you may have blown the head gasket again Does the fan kick in on the rad to cool it down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 If the gauge is that hot you may have blown the head gasket again Does the fan kick in on the rad to cool it down? That would be a miracle if it did lol. ---------- Post added 20-05-2013 at 18:45 ---------- No water in oil or out of exhaust ,choke working fine,water pump been off replaced,no oil on pully, bolt tight not slipping,yes oil presssure good,nothing will bring temp down,Oh not sure about time 10 mins 15 max then boiling bubbleing really hot.So whats next.By the way are you not doing Reliants anymore be supprised how many garrages wont even touch them ?No not doing blooming reliants lol.Backs bad enough Will get back to you need to check a price for some stuff although i am doubting its going to actually work.Never has done in past but is well worth trying. Try this Kamco hyper - flush high performance liquid might be about £10 though.I know its mainly for a rad but forget about that bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLYNNFURN Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 cracked or porous liner ??? only showing up when the engine is hot ??? probably from frost damage??? Glynn p.s. they are right pigs to work on .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geared Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Wouldn't you get bubbles in the water system from something like that? Causing it to chuck out water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carosio Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 We had an Austin 1100 that, according to the temp gauge, continually overheated. After trying everything, we concluded that the iron block was partially blocked with some kind of sediment so when the rad was cold we put a good dose of caustic soda in and ran it for a week then drained it. This cured it 90%. Not recommended for alloy blocks (or rads) of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 We had an Austin 1100 that, according to the temp gauge, continually overheated. After trying everything, we concluded that the iron block was partially blocked with some kind of sediment so when the rad was cold we put a good dose of caustic soda in and ran it for a week then drained it. This cured it 90%. Not recommended for alloy blocks (or rads) of course. Thats reason im saying Kamco hyper - flush high performance it gets clogged up behind no 4 liner well known for it.Obviously rule out all other points first.But on all that we had in it meant going in from rear co plug with high pressure.Even then its not 100% that will do job.Worse case would be change engine/block or strip and clean out manually.And thats not a easy task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carosio Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Thats reason im saying Kamco hyper - flush high performance it gets clogged up behind no 4 liner well known for it.Obviously rule out all other points first.But on all that we had in it meant going in from rear co plug with high pressure.Even then its not 100% that will do job.Worse case would be change engine/block or strip and clean out manually.And thats not a easy task. This was back in 60s/70s and I don't think you could get such cleaners, apart from some Holts products that might have been suitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminator Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 This was back in 60s/70s and I don't think you could get such cleaners, apart from some Holts products that might have been suitable. I remember caustic soda we used to have old tin bath filled up with it in garage lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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