yellowperil Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Its unusual for it to screw out once youd jemmied it out a bit. The switch thread is the softer of the two so it should be that that strips and not the block thread. Although the switch may look ok it might be stripped on the very ends of the threads. Id try a new one slowly before you go any further as the extra depth of the thread on it might just do its job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megalithic Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Its unusual for it to screw out once youd jemmied it out a bit. The switch thread is the softer of the two so it should be that that strips and not the block thread. Although the switch may look ok it might be stripped on the very ends of the threads. Id try a new one slowly before you go any further as the extra depth of the thread on it might just do its job. Tried a new switch in it and the internal thread is buggered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geared Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 It's gunna have to be tapped really. It's an oil pressure switch, so naturally the oily end of it is going to be subject to engine oil at operating temp and pressure. I wouldn't fancy quicksteel or anything holding fast against oil pressure for any great length of time. Which part is going to be a problem, drilling the hole out or tapping the new thread - or both?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowperil Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Not holding at all? I used some stuff in the past by plastic padding called plastic padding metal. A two part mix that can be drilled,tapped etc when set. Might be worth cleaning everything of oil and grease inc in the hole with a cotton bud and petrol maybe. Then spread a thin layer on the threads and screw it in hand tight. If theres a bit of thread in there it will bond to it and might just work. Nothing to lose. I think the metal stuff is ok under high temperature unlike usual epoxy. Theres also quicksteel epoxy putty that could work. As youre not going to keep it then its an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megalithic Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 I've screwed it in a tight as it'll go with JB weld as a temporary measure (maybe, it's still curing). A mate thinks he's an Helicoil set at work. so i'll go with that if so. Last option will be to TIG weld it off. :bodge: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzyoo Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 you could get a nut of the correct thread, I suspect it will be b.s.p and weld the nut to the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megalithic Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 you could get a nut of the correct thread, I suspect it will be b.s.p and weld the nut to the block. That's a bloody good idea, and one i'd not thought of or seen via extensive Googling ! But......Is it possible to weld steel to ali ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowperil Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 Great idea. Alloy nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speleo1 Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 as said nut of correct thread on outside and try some liquid metal,its on the outside so it will or wont stick,and you can take it of if it dont set, http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-tape-glue-velcro/evo-stik-liquid-metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megalithic Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Great idea. Alloy nut? It would also negate the problem of drill turnings entering the block. ---------- Post added 26-07-2014 at 00:55 ---------- as said nut of correct thread on outside and try some liquid metal,its on the outside so it will or wont stick,and you can take it of if it dont set, http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repairs/car-tape-glue-velcro/evo-stik-liquid-metal Though i've bodged it with JB weld, i doubt it or any sort of resin (?) will sort it long term. I'm fully expecting it to fail as soon as the engine gets hot. The car itself has little else wrong with it, so should go through it's MOT. But i've also grown to love it And though it's very replaceable, i'd like to keep it a while. Me > Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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