Coasting in gear or neutral - most efficient?

[geared]

it's extremely dangerous to engage in such an action. The brakes will disable and the consequences could be fatal.

 

Total rubbish

 

Unless it stalls, hence me mentioning only crafted drivers can get away with it as such

 

There will still be enough vacuum in the brake booster to operate the brakes normally and bring the car to a stop safely.

Even then, if it did stall while you were coasting in neutral, just whack it back in gear.

[blake]

On at least 125cc motor scooters it's OK to switch off the engine completely. The brakes work exactly the same.

[ivan edake]

I was told that waiting in traffic with the vehicle in Gear and Clutch disengaged is a major contributing factor to premature clutch release bearing failure as this loads the clutch release bearing excessively and shortens both the bearing and clutch assembly life drastically.

So, driving with the car coasting and the clutch out would possibly give the same result.

 

You was given the correct information.Always put the car into neutral when you stop at the traffic lights or are stuck in a jam,you will quadrupel the life of the clutch.Never coast in or out of gear,it is a dangerous and stupid practice.

[GreenyGreen]

I speak from experience when I say the brakes don't work when coasting. Well, they only work about 10% I'd say.

 

It was a pretty scary feeling I can tell you, especially going downhill. To save a bit of gas whilst putting yourself (and others) in danger is not an intelligent thing to do.

[hush]

I speak from experience when I say the brakes don't work when coasting. Well, they only work about 10% I'd say.

 

It was a pretty scary feeling I can tell you, especially going downhill. To save a bit of gas whilst putting yourself (and others) in danger is not an intelligent thing to do.

 

I recall some years ago driving up the outside lane of the A1M heading north. I had ignition failure and the engine cut. I had no real alternative but to knock the car out of gear. I tried to turn the engine over on the starter but that required the ignition to be turned off and the steering locked. One go was enough.

There was a long queue of trucks in the inside lane and I tried to go for a gap. It wasn't easy. The power steering had gone and I could hardly turn the wheel to aim for a gap.

Anyhow. I made the hard shoulder and then found I had no brakes. I ran up the hard shoulder until it ran out at which point I hit a bridge.

It wasn't a lot of fun. You really don't want to drive on a dead engine if it can be avoided.

[Obelix]

I speak from experience when I say the brakes don't work when coasting. Well, they only work about 10% I'd say.

 

It was a pretty scary feeling I can tell you, especially going downhill. To save a bit of gas whilst putting yourself (and others) in danger is not an intelligent thing to do.

 

Then you have a defective vehicle. There should be enough vacuum in the boost reservoir for at least two full applications of the brakes, and even without vacuum there should be a deal more than 10% left.

[banjodeano]

I was following someone today on a flat road with a few slight bends on it, and they were breaking on the corners, all they had to do was just take their foot off the throttle and then back on after the slight bend, but they were breaking which was wasting petrol

[geared]

I speak from experience when I say the brakes don't work when coasting. Well, they only work about 10% I'd say.

 

It was a pretty scary feeling I can tell you, especially going downhill. To save a bit of gas whilst putting yourself (and others) in danger is not an intelligent thing to do.

 

Your braking system is clearly broken, you shouldn't be driving that vehicle on the road.

 

The brakes should work 100% as long as the engine is running, even at idle, even while coasting.

 

---------- Post added 16-12-2016 at 21:06 ----------

 

On at least 125cc motor scooters it's OK to switch off the engine completely. The brakes work exactly the same.

 

Sounds like the brakes aren't servo assisted, so they operate the same whether the engine is on or off.

 

---------- Post added 16-12-2016 at 21:12 ----------

 

I recall some years ago driving up the outside lane of the A1M heading north. I had ignition failure and the engine cut. I had no real alternative but to knock the car out of gear. I tried to turn the engine over on the starter but that required the ignition to be turned off and the steering locked. One go was enough.

 

In such a situation if you knock it out and back into gear it 'might' bump start then engine back into life.

 

If it doesn't restart just having the engine turning over will still generate vacuum in the brake booster to give full power to the brakes.

It'd also keep the power steering pump spinning so the steering doesn't get heavy.

[Dardandec]

You wouldn't have fancied free wheeling down hill in my 1979 Mini 1000. Front and rear brake drums and no servo, although it was dual circuit I think that car invented serious brake fade.

[MAC33]

My 2004 Toyota Avalon that I bought with 58K on the clock gets an average of 650 Kms for a full 63.5 litre tank.

 

The owner said its gets around 500 Kms for a full tank.

 

I started getting around 550 Kms out of it when I first bought it,then with more careful use of the accelerator and brake I was easily able to get it beyond 600 Kms.

 

Have since started driving like an old granny.

 

Most I've ever got was 670 Kms,but last week I increased tyre pressure to 38 and I hit 700 Kms on the button.

 

Course I'm in neutral at every possible opportunity to achieve these figures.

 

It's a 3litre 6 cylinder with now 149 000 Kms.

 

This week I'm going to fill the tank up and only coast in gear.

 

Will get back to you in a few weeks with my fuel consumption.