lovabulrogue Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 All. I have a golf mk4 2001. 1.6 petrol. I want to get it back on the road - do I HAVE to fit a battery that it specific for that engine, or will any fit for purpose battery do. I see that they vary in prices, just wanted some advice. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudds1 Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 All. I have a golf mk4 2001. 1.6 petrol. I want to get it back on the road - do I HAVE to fit a battery that it specific for that engine, or will any fit for purpose battery do. I see that they vary in prices, just wanted some advice. Thanks in advance You need to fit the correct amp size battery to the car ,too small cranking amp and it won't have enough power to turn engine over without becoming discharged quickly ,too big an amp size and car will struggle to recharge it correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therascal Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Thanks wallace, done that already, it struggles to turn over ( not through lack of battery) the power is there then it fires up.... Then splutter dies within 5-6 seconds! If the battery is fully charged and it struggles to turn over, check the earth strap between engine and bodywork it may have corroded and broken if the cars been stood all that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cra1g Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 :help: Can anyone give me a bit of advice I have a Kia Sorento 55 Plate and the other week the clutch peddles went to the floor and would not spring back up, so I knew there was something wrong with the clutch. Cut a long story short I took it to a garage that I know, and they said it looked like the Slave cylinder and swapped it out. 2 weeks later the same thing happened I went back to the garage and they reluctantly replaced the slave cylinder which went again within 2 days... What I want to know is how much would it cost me for a new clutch Slave and Master cylinder even a second hand one to be fitted and do you know of anyone that could do this ASAP. If you can or you know of someone that can do this job, please contact me through the forums and give me a rough price on how much it will be... Thanks for reading Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top Cats Hat Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Worn/sticking clutch release bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obelix Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Or broken or cracked clutch plate spring. Next time it's off always swap everything, frinction plate, pressure plate, release fork and spring - everything. False economy in labour not to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top Cats Hat Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Is the system losing fluid? If it is then there is a leak in the system somewhere. If it isn't and the pedal still goes to the floor, then the fluid is probably leaking back past a seal somewhere. Most modern clutches are disengaged by hydraulic pressure (master/slaver cylinder) and engaged by mechanical means (usually a spring). If the hydraulic system has been replaced and the problem persists then as Obelix says, the actual clutch mechanism itself needs looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mulan Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Hi I’m looking for some advice on what could possibly be wrong with my car? It’s a 1.2 corsa 2013 petrol engine, goes into limp mode intermittently and when this happens eml (car with spanner) comes on, turns off after engine restart most times and runs a little better, some times it continues and I have to park it up for a few days. I’m having to rev and change gear between 3-4K revs most times to avoid limp mode, engine feels like it’s draggin/heavy and more recent car is jerking on acceleration and a popping noise when accelerating. A diagnostic showed throttle pedal signal not plausible or something similar? Advice so far from mechanics that it could be MAF sensor, throttle body, coil pack. Any advice please? I don’t want to start paying out to replace parts to find that it isn’t a fix. TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuthead Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 my 1.2 corsa (2014 petrol) did exactly this a few months ago. I took off the coil pack to find one of the rubber seals had perished and the spark plug was firing onto the engine wall so that's definitely worth checking (the error i was getting from a diagnostic check was a misfiring cylinder though). It was something like £15 for a pack of 4 rubber bits on ebay, or £100+ for the coil pack if that's gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchresearch Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 If the engine management light is coming on then it should be logging a fault code. Get it diagnosed with decent equipment before throwing parts at the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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