How to fix dripping joint, in copper water pipe?

[Waldo]

Linky to YouTube:

 

After doing some tests with loo roll, I think it's the bottom (wider) pipe that has the leak.

[smithy266]

do a proper, permanent repair. Bodge it, and be prepared to have more bother.

[rudds1]

do a proper, permanent repair. Bodge it, and be prepared to have more bother.

 

Well said

If it was my problem I'd trace pipe back as far as possible then like others have said use push fit fittings and if need be a bit of new pipe

[Waldo]

Well said

If it was my problem I'd trace pipe back as far as possible then like others have said use push fit fittings and if need be a bit of new pipe

 

I agree, that's way better than a bodge job. The issue is just one of access.

 

The T join is in the corner of the room; so, of the 3 pipes that run in to it, 2 go along the edge of the room, and 1 goes in to a (interior) wall. So, it's in the corner of the room, at floor level, where the T join is located.

 

I guess it's an idea to try and excavate material from the wall (bits of old newspaper and plaster from the looks of it), and see if the pipe can be cut at the side of the T join where it runs in to the wall.

[carosio]

Is it cold water or hot water pipe? Where does the far end of the T joint go?

[willman]

I'm all for causing less work than needed, but i would be sorely tempted to remove the paper in the cavity, track the pipes back from the junctions a little bit(where the tissue ends perhaps) and cut them out.

Replace with plastic pipe and push fits.

If you use a circular pipe cutter access will be easier,you can prebuild the t junctions and fit onto the pipes with the relevant parts in place.

[zaci]

Don't think replacing with push fit is an option, if as you say the pipework is over 30 years old then it's going to be imperial sized pipework. You might get lucky with a bodge job but it's not going to last you very long. It looks like it's on the heating pipework so to replace would require a drain down of the heating system.

[petemcewan]

Waldo,

 

Why not get a plumber to do the job ? It's like an iron law of the universe that the problem is inaccessible. My Combi Boiler kept on tripping the RCD. Of course the fault had to be on the PCB. Cost me £300 to have it replaced.

[Rhyno]

If you can drain it then a plumbers iron or a torch on it and reflow the solder with some more can be enough. Of course if access is an issue then you generally find that the problem is flammable stuff that doesnt like a blowtorch....

 

If space is really tight, a creme brûlée torch might be easier to use than a plumbers blowtorch.

 

It will still have an adverse effect on any flammable stuff though.

[Obelix]

If space is really tight, a creme brûlée torch might be easier to use than a plumbers blowtorch.

 

It will still have an adverse effect on any flammable stuff though.

 

If you can get it hot enough yes... I have successfully sheilded flammable stuff with decent thick tinplate before behind the joint to be heated but I was young and foolish and nearly burnt the flat down...

 

As others have said if you can cut it out and get the plastic click lock stuff in it's worth doing as that stuff is so much better and more durable.